Walking off the plane in Merida from Mexico City was a contrast of pace. The intense hustle and madness of Mexico City was met by calming Caribbean style music and a warm Yucatan breeze.
Our hotel is simple, spacious and clean. The Luz de Yucatan https://www.luzenyucatan.com/en/home-2/ is right in Centro Historico so we walk out to the Merida night. Music echoes through the streets as restaurants wake up for post comida and what we call dinner is La Cena. La Cena starts about 7pm and builds into the evening.
We walk the streets taking it all in and feeling the warmth of the Yucatan. Warmth in the weather and the people. One man we met asked us; “de donde eres?” Where are you from? We answered: “vivimos en San Miguel de Allede aqui en Mexico.” He answered quickly in English. “This is not Mexico, you are in the Yucatan.” The people of the Yucatan hold on to their Mayan heritage like no other. They continue to hold on to the Mayan language and customs. He is angry about Mexico, the gangs, the crime, the extreme violence. “We do not rape women and kill people.”
To the people of New York, Paris, or London, “death” is a word that is never pronounced because it burns the lips. The Mexican, however, frequents it, jokes about it, caresses it, sleeps with it, celebrates it; it is one of his favorite toys and most steadfast love. Of course, in his attitude perhaps there is as much fear as there is in one of the others; at least he does not hide it; he confronts it face to face with patience, disdain, or irony.
The Labyrinth of Solitude (1950)
He said. “Do not be afraid, you are in Yucatan. We did feel the difference. We stick out as tall big headed Americans but they did not hawk us, only sincere questions about where are we from and gentle smiles.
We have seen the capital city of the Yucatan by night. The next day we awake to walk the city and learn. We walk to Casa Azul. A beautiful hotel we researched. http://www.casaazulhotel.com/ We arrive at the entrance and it is locked. We ring the bell and a young man greets us. Santiago tells us the hotel is private and always locked. We ask in Spanish, “es possible ver bonita hotel?” Si! Santiago answers and we walk into a beautiful French colonial mansion with only eight rooms. The courtyard is lush and green with tropical plants. He points us to the front desk to show us the 4 star diamond ratings. Santiago walks us out and directs us two blocks south to the most famous boulevard in the Yucatan. Paseon de Montejo. A wide boulevard with more French colonial mansions bright white as well as pink and blue. Giant sidewalks with monstrous trees creating a shaded tunnel to protect us from the sun.
On Sundays streets close, Mercados open. Street food stalls on one side as the smell of meat and fish on the grill fills the air. Beautiful craft stalls on the other side and music frames it all. We stop on one corner to soak in the music, color and love as people of all ages dance together, swaying, laughing and caressing. Just another Sunday in Merida.
Merida is also a city of day trips. You can explore Mayan and Aztec pyramids, cenotes and a biosphere reserve to protect birds and the cleansing mangrove forests.
Day three we jump the local bus to Celestun, a small village on the Gulf of Mexico. The bus ride is wonderful as we pass through small villages picking up and dropping off kids going to school and mothers headed to market. A man jumped on for two stops selling peanuts. The peanuts were fresh roasted and still warm. Twenty pesos for three small bags. Yum!! The bus ride took two hours and costs 60 pesos each or three dollars.
Celestun is still trying to hold on to its fishing heritage. As you walk about town you see nets strung and rolled being repaired and prepared. How long will the fish last? Overfishing is a problem and rules and catch limits are ignored here. The only thing this village has to hold on to, whether they know it or not, is eco–tourism. People are coming here by the bus loads to see the Pink Flamingo. Thousands of them migrate here and live here in the estuaries digging shrimp in the mud from the almost pink water. It is said that the pink color of the Flamingo comes from the shrimp. We planned our trip to be an overnight trip. We always love seeing small villages and learning about how people live. We booked the Santa Julia hotel. The reviews were off the charts for this 2 star hotel. I know that sounds strange but the truth is this is a poor village with few options. Santa Julia was simple, clean and our host was kind and helpful.
We take a funky tricycle cart pushed by a motorcycle to the lagoon to meet the boatmen for our trip out to see the Pink Flamingos. Our boatman Filipe and his son of the same name welcome us to the 18 foot skiff with a 60 horse Yamaha outboard. We ease out of the marina and soon Filipe presses the throttle forward and skips us over the estuary out past thick Mangrove forests and flocks of Pelicanos.
Soon we see the pink hue on the horizon and within minutes we slowly approach a flock of Pink Flamingos, many standing a meter tall in about 8 inches of water.
There are hundreds standing, cuddling and posing mostly for each other. More Flamingos join the gaggle flying in stretched out looking like F–18’s coming in for a landing.
We see a few babies, which are white, and the sound the birds make is a low warble as they flirt, talk and dig shrimp from the mud. We sit quietly floating amid these beautiful creatures with our boat mates Sophia and Etiene both from Mexico City. We all look at each other in amazement. As we slowly edge the boat back away from the birds Filipe turns over the outboard and we are now flying down the other side of the estuary. Without backing off the throttle he banks us into the mangroves through a small tunnel. Felipe pulls back the throttle and we glide into another world.
The mangrove trees reach for the sky as the roots dig into the water. The small river like waterway takes us inside the forest.
Birds small and large find life here and you can see fish down into the clear water. These forests and estuaries clean the waters of the Gulf of Mexico as well as provide shelter and life for so many species.
The only place we had ever seen Pink Flamingos had been the plastic yard art outside the beautiful American Mid Century modern homes. We will now appreciate these beauties even more.
We have so much more to explore here and look forward to all the warmth the Yucatan has to offer!!
We have now lived in Mexico for 2 years! We are learning Spanish and so much about Mexican culture. This little bit of knowledge and language skill gives us confidence to now travel inside Mexico.
Open your eyes and see what you can with them before they close forever.
Anthony Doerr, All the Light We Cannot See
Mexico City is one of the biggest cities in the world with over 25 million people and the crime rate here is one third less than Washington DC. You arrive to chaos and energy and a lot of pollution this time of year because of inversion. Cold air up high trapping hot air below. A lot of hot air from a lot of carbon powered gas cars.
We like the neighborhood of Polanco. The streets are clean and parks are woven between busy streets and sidewalk cafes reminding us of Paris. The people are dressed sharp and greet you with a smile when you greet them with the traditional Mexican courtesy of buenos dais, buenos tardes, and buenos noches. These are important to know and understand. The culture here is strong and knowing just a little will get you through a lot of bad Spanish.
We walk, talk and shop through the streets of Polanco, thinking in Spanish. What a feeling to cross over to this point. Our Spanish skills are by no means perfect but we are doing it and it is amazing. Our efforts have paid off and the smiles from the Mexican people warm our hearts. We are comfortable here!! We stop for a glass of wine and a beautiful frijoles soup at Dante and just around the corner is Cerveceria Polanquito. Beautiful food and people! There are many world class restaurants here in the city. James Beard award winners with months or more long waits for a reservation. We enjoy finding smaller places with fun bars and bumping music. We love to sit at the bar and find a way to eat plant based. “No comemos carne.” We laugh and speak Spanish with the bartenders while they practice English with us. So much fun!
Remember, comida is the big meal of the day here and it starts at 2 or 3pm! Yes, 2 or 3pm and restaurants are packed with business people making deals. Saluts abound and wine glasses ching ching! ‘The ”’Three Martini Lunch’ is alive and well here in Mexico City. Every company in the world wants to be part of Mexico and especially Mexico City. Here are just some of the brands with a footprint in Mexico City: The NBA, the NFL, Major League Baseball, Starbucks, Steelcase, Knoll, AT&T, HSBC Bank, yes Huawei (don’t plug in!), Toyota , GM, BMW, even Gino’s East Pizza from Chicago!
On Sunday one of the biggest streets in Mexico City, Reforma, is blocked off to allow bikes to travel miles without traffic. It is a Sunday tradition as people on bikes travel freely from neighborhood to neighborhood.
We enjoyed our visit to the Anthropology museum but only had time to spend a few hours. You could spend three days!
We will return to beautiful Mexico City and find more favorite places to explore, eat and drink!
Muchos Abrazos Mexico City!
Our hearts, home and life are in Southeast Asia for the next five weeks. Our plans are not plans. We have a ticket to Bangkok and a flight leaving Bangkok. That’s all we know. For two hard driving sales people this is a big challenge. We plan, we execute. On this adventure we let things go, and check out our surroundings, we talk to people, learn and make adjustments. Come to think of it that is a solid sales trait as well.
Bangkok where we find beauty, the hustle of a big city and the peace of the Thai people.
The traffic here is intense and it only takes us one trip in a taxi to learn that the streets are not the place to be in a car. We learn the sky train and everywhere we go we find our way to and from on the train. Caroline is a transit genius and has taught me to appreciate public transit and how to understand systems all over the world.
We tour the Chao Phraya River in a classic long boat. Our skipper is proud of his brand new boat. It’s only one month old, with a powerful 6 cylinder engine. The boat is at least 50 feet long and holds about 15 people. Our driver skips us over the water through the middle of Bangkok. We see beautiful hotels like the Mandarin Orient, The Peninsula and the Lebau Tower where the movie Hangover II was filmed. We turn from the main river to a side channel which winds us deep into the underbelly of Bangkok. We see small ramshackle homes on the channel some with beautiful Orchids dripping from the decks right over the channel. Catfish boil in the water and giant lizards lounge lazily on the decks below the Orchids. In this back channel away from the city is where I see a hand painted sign.
“To do no wrong is to do nothing.”
We make mistakes. We have to move on.
On our way back to the train we walk by a brand new condo building with an open sign so being the real estate addicts that we are we pop in for a look. The materials are beautiful. Cool white marble floors and well crafted doors and windows. It’s small about 600 square feet with a small kitchen a nice bathroom and a great bedroom with views to the river or the city. The pool sat on the 18th floor and looked out over the city. Price tag was about $260,000 US or $9,000,000 Thai Baht. What do we think? How exciting to think what it would be like to live here for a few months a year. We decide if we are to do that renting is the best option. So fun to look so fun to dream so fun to stop before you make one of those mistakes we learned about.
On day two the heat intensifies and we jump the train back to the river to tour the temples riverside. This is the Wat Arun temple built in the 1700’s. Across the river we visit the Wat Pho temple which is an amazing campus of temples and tombs. Monks mix in with the tourists from all over the world especially China. The Chinese travel in groups, large groups and take over almost every tourist area. It becomes too much and we beat it away from the temples and to the comfort of the sky train.
Back to our neighborhood in Sukhumvit we find an hour long foot massage for 250 Baht or about $7. The foot massage is magic that finishes with a strong shoulder and back massage.
Day three we grow to love this city! The coffee is amazing and today we find the Siam Paragon mall. Every brand, every shop that you can imagine. In the basement much like Harrods in London is a gourmet grocery store with rows and rows of beautiful food, produce and like Harrods lunch counters serving champagne and caviar. We skip the caviar but enjoy a few nice glasses of champagne and seared tuna. Where are we?
There are many neighborhoods in Bangkok of course. We are staying on Sukhumvit which is a large thoroughfare through the city. The Sky Train hovers overheard and hums with efficiency. We like it here and love to explore the Sois which are streets that stream off Sukhumvit. On one side the even numbers on the other odd. Sois 2 and 4 are in the Nana district which is known as a red light district. Bars and foot massage parlors are the flavor of these Sois. We wander up 4 and over to 6 winding our way to 8. Each So has it’s own personality and it is so fun to find your favorite Soi. At night we head to Soi 11 which at first looks seedy. Then the restaurants, hotels and apartments appear and the vibe is fantastic. We sit at the bar at Oskar’s and enjoy a few drinks and soak up the local flavor.
Day four becomes night four for this story. As we explore doing something even if it is wrong. We head out for sunset at the Lebeau Sky Bar. Yes, Hangover II filmed a memorable scene here. The view is spectacular and the people are beautiful. The circle bar is 64 floors above Bangkok with the river winding through the city below.
They are serving Perrier-Jouët Champagne and it is amazing. Rick’s family name Jewett is from the French name Jouët. We are told the story of the Perrier and Jouët love affair. We laugh, drink champagne and imagine the year 1811 and being Jouët. We enjoy a bottle and a few more glasses as the sun sets and the music begins. By the time we get the bill it is enormous. We didn’t ask the price or look at the menu. If you have to ask you shouldn’t be here. Right? We learned the next night that there is a 400% import tax on wine in Thailand. “To do no wrong is to do nothing.” I don’t think we did anything wrong. Next time a glass not a bottle.
“One night in Bangkok makes a hard man humble.” This Murray Head song is stuck in our heads, and we had four nights in Bangkok. We may have more? The trip now shifts to Chiangmai, Thailand in the north. Stay tuned…More to come.
We arrive early to see the Walter Kerr Theater marquee board, find our seats and have a drink. As seats fill up the excitement builds. Kevin Bacon walks by with Kiera Sedgwick. Danny DeVito is said to be in the house. Then in walks Sir Paul McCartney. The only star of this theater however is Bruce Springsteen.
We have been warned to bring tissue. The lights dim and Bruce Springsteen walks calmly to center stage, grabs one of his beautiful guitars and begins talking. Actually he is speaking in poetry about his life, his family, his friends and his fans. Bruce paints a picture of New Jersey where his family and extended family lived in the 50’s and 60’s as he speaks you can almost hear the church bells ring. He strums his guitar and slides right in to Growin Up. Caroline thinks about her family. I think about my family and how we grew up. Bruce explains that music reminds us about our own lives. Boy does it and the tears flow.
He jokes about being Mr. Born To Run and now he lives just five miles from his hometown. A perfect transition into My Hometown which he sings with perfect clarity and melody and harmony with his guitar.
My Father’s House is about his Dad and he tells a story about being sent into a Jersey bar to tell his Father that his Mom wants him to come home.
My daughter Alexa asked me the night before the show if I had to choose would I choose Thunder Road or Rosalita as my favorite Bruce song. The answer this night is Thunder Road. “The screen door slams, Mary’s dress waves. Like a vision she dances across the porch as the radio plays.” Tears flow and you hear other people crying around you. The sound of sniffles continues through this beautiful show.
Tenth Avenue Freeze Out is a song designed to rock our world. Bruce weaves in stories about Clarence Clemons and their strong friendship and his band. When one plus one equals three you know you have the right band. He is shaken by the loss of his friend Clarence and other friends and family. We are shaken to more tears as Caroline thinks of the loss of her brother Shon and the impact it had on her, her sister Rachel, her Mom and her Dad. I think of the loss of Kathi, my own children Alexa and Andrea as well and my parents as they struggle with health issues. The story ends on a high note as he transitions to the song describing how Scooter and the Big Man busted the city in half.
This is not your jump up and down screaming rock concert. This is a rock star reflecting on his life and baring his soul to his extreme fan base. Yes, this base is extreme. Tickets are expensive and hard to come by with only 900 seats each night. Bruce talks about how his songs are about the working class and how he himself has never worked an eight hour day, or worked five days a week. Then with a smile he says…Until now.
The beautiful Patti Scialfa, Bruce’s wife and savior, enters the stage for two songs. Tougher than the Rest and Brilliant Disguise. They clearly are in love as she stands next to him and they sing mouth to mouth on one microphone. Her voice is light, airy and spectacular.
Dancing in the Dark is written with Bruce’s mother in mind. He talked about when things got bad his mom would say: “Now it’s time to dance.” Bruce loves his mother and it is clear from the passion of his words and memories.
As political as Mr. Springsteen can be or could be he only talked about what is going on in our country as a bad chapter, a chapter that will only continue to make our country great. Land of Hope and Dreams is his song to America and his love of the United State of America.
To hear Bruce Springsteen say the Lords Prayer is amazing. His voice, his words, his message. “Give us this night, give us this night.” Listen, learn and love.
Two hours later the show comes to the song that made Bruce Springsteen famous. Born to Run is his theme song and he does not disappoint. His voice is clear and the guitar cords are crisp and perfect.
As he says goodbye Patti joins him on stage and they bow together hand in hand. Bruce looks at the crowd, looks at the faces. He may have given a nod to Paul McCartney but as his fans stand he looks at us with his sad and understanding eyes. As he leaves stage he waves a heavy rock star wave. I hope this is not the last time I see him on stage. Bruce has given so much and he has more to give. Listen, learn and love. Spoiler Alert below:
The phone rings. The shoot is on! The call is from my good friend and journalist John Larson. We are about to take off to shoot a story on the Baja Peninsula in Mexico. John is in San Diego and we live in Mexico. We can meet him on the Baja. I haven’t shot a story in 23 years. My last story was with John and it was the Clinton inauguration day storm in Seattle. The gear is different, the editing is different and the world is different.
Before I left Seattle I invested in equipment that I could use to gather broadcast quality video. My Canon 70D is an amazing camera. I do question my skills or lack of skills. John and Caroline both encourage me to go for it! I’ve been practicing knowing this could happen but can I hold up my end?
The story is incredible if nothing else we go for the experience, learn from the experience. Grab life, tell a story!
We fly to Tijuana and rent a car to drive the 4+ hour drive across the Baja. John enters Mexico through Mexicali for his 4+ hour drive south to San Filipe. John is in his brand new Chevy Bolt, an electric car with 250 miles of range. His trip is 243 miles one way so he will have to depend on newly installed charging stations in Mexico to ensure arrival and return. Stressful but the chargers work and it is reported to John that he is the first user of these chargers in Mexico.
Culture here respects and honors the art of playing.
We arrive in Oaxaca straight from Las Vegas. We left Las Vegas the day of the massacre. Such tragedy in America’s city of play. One of Rick’s best friends is Phil Tom who lives in Las Vegas. Phil is the Lord of playing and fantasy. Phil grew up in Indiana and played multiple sports. He would shoot baskets in his backyard for hours pretending he was Larry Bird. The base of much of his success as a kid and adult is anchored in his own desire and need to PLAY. Phil designed an 18 hole golf course around his home in Las Vegas as a place to PLAY and created golf’s fifth major. The holes are narrow, short and a huge challenge for golfers. Caroline’s Dad and Mary came to see us in Las Vegas and they too walked the course with smiles.
For the past 19 years Phil has put on the Lakeshore golf tournament for the Make a Wish Foundation to help benefit kids who are fighting for their lives with little opportunity to PLAY. This year the tournament and party raised over $10,000. The total for 19 years of is over $200,000. Thank you Phil.
We wake up in Mexico to our phones blowing up with concern from friends and family that knew we were in Las Vegas. We turned on the news to the horror of the morning aftermath of a mad man that fired upon 22,000 people at PLAY, listening to music, dancing and singing.
The timing is perfect for our first visit to Oaxaca, in southern Mexico where only two weeks earlier the area was rocked by three major earthquakes that killed hundreds and left thousands without safe shelter. We called our contacts prior to our arrival to make sure all was well and that we would be welcomed at this time of disaster. Everyone asked us to please come! Ciudad de Oaxaca was rattled but okay. The city is ancient, the land around the city is mountainous and green.
The people, oh the people of Oaxaca thank you for showing us your beautiful spirit and welcoming us to your city!
First stop is the city’s indigenous, botanical gardens. We are toured by Carole Turkenik a famous, retired, American botanist who loves Oaxaca and lives here most of the time. She is in awe herself as she explains to us the origin of the chile pepper. Every chile pepper in the world originated here in Mexico and specifically here in Oaxaca. Can you imagine Thai food without chile peppers? Chinese food without chile peppers? Indian food without chile peppers? They are all from here! The garden is called an indigenous garden to help represent the 16 different indigenous cultures here in Oaxaca. Amazing!
We learned where much of the world’s great foods originate and now we learn to cook! Our cooking class started in the markets of Ciudad de Oaxaca. Markets in the world should take note of these beautiful markets filled with color, smells, food and drink. From stall to stall you are greeted with big smiles and ‘buenos días’! Fresh, clean vegetables are gathered by our guide and chef Esperanza as she works her way, with us in tow and eyes wide open, through The Viente Noviembre Mercado. The mercado is well designed with well lit stalls and wonderfully displayed products from classic Oaxacan chile peppers to lush local chocolate. We arrive at our kitchen for the day and meet our classmates. Julie, Maya, and Carrie all friends from New York. What a fun day to spend with new friends in the world. Augustine is the head of school and the English translator. He greets us with humor and welcomes us to his home. The kitchen fills with the smells of roasted garlic, grilled onions and roasting peppers. We learn to make authentic tortillas, guacamole, and beautiful red mole. We taste Mezcal and drink beer as we help Esperanza cook and teach us indigenous recipes. We get to know each other and share our meal together along with a bottle of Mezcal that makes us all laugh as we toast each other to one more. Salud! In Mexico we play!
The next day our driver Erick picks us up for a day of exploring. First stop, a cypress tree that is the widest tree in the world. Its boughs fall with grace from the sky as gentle feathers.
We stop at a textile mill where men and women perform an ancient dance with ancient weaving machines as they stomp and pull the old wood contraptions and slap the cotton or wool threads into beautiful designs.
Our next stop is a Zapotec village where families still weave wool rugs with designs from ancient Zapotec symbols. The colors are created from nature. Walnuts help create browns, marigolds brighten yellows and red comes from a parasite that only lives on the Nopal Cactus. As Spain conquered Mexico they began to mass produce and export the color to Europe. The beautiful color soon became the third most exported product from Mexico behind Silver and Gold.
Now modern medicine, science and the food industry seek the parasite because it creates a red that does not cause cancer. J. Isaac Vasquez Garcia is a family run weaving business and is honored as the best in Mexico. The story is good and the products are fantastic.
Our trip through nature continues as we visit the Don Agave Mezcal tasting room and distillery. Our guide walks around the grounds showing us agave plants in various stages of life and explains the process of identifying and harvesting quality agave for Mezcal production. We see the ancient beds where the agave is buried and cured with hot volcanic rocks. The rocks and mesquite wood create the smokey flavors so unique to Mezcal. The ancient process of grinding the agave using a giant stone wheel being pulled in a circle by a horse still exists. The end product is pure 38% alcohol and a treat to taste if you know how to taste the elixir. My friend Dan asked me on Facebook. “Doesn’t Mezcal taste like paint thinner?” Actually no, we learned from our guide. To taste and drink Mezcal the art is almost like smoking. Fill your mouth with a small amount of Mezcal, swish it around your mouth to taste the flavors. Swallow the Mezcal and as the flavors reach the bottom of your stomach exhale as if releasing the Mezcal back through your mouth and nose. The flavors then return as you taste a variety of essences. Flowers, oils and some smoke. So good! We taste Mezcal and eat roasted Grasshoppers!
We ended our week on a the rooftop of Casa Oaxaca. Chef Alejandro Ruiz is a top chef in Mexico and the food proves that fact.
Red salsa ground from roasted tomatoes and tomatillos, red chilies, garlic and onion using a Molcajete to mix the ingredients together right at your table creating an aroma and mouth watering salsa to begin your meal.
A beautiful bottle of Cabernet from Valle de Guadalupe, which is Mexico’s premier wine region. To finish us off a beautiful piece of Sea Bass arrives cooked to perfection. Firm, rich and full of taste as if right from the beach. Above a full moon begins to part the clouds and below a parade begins to take shape. We learn that a new University has come to town and the young people dance, weave and sing below us to welcome the new school. They are playing and celebrating life in Mexico. We sit in awe and talk about how grateful we are to be in the presence of these people in their country. We are welcomed by everyone we meet. The kids in the street, the people at our hotel which is the holiday inn express. We think it’s the best in town and Trip Advisor agrees. They care for us and greet us with smiles, buenos días and ask us how we slept.
We love this country of Mexico, the people and their culture. Keep making time to PLAY Mexico and we will continue to learn and play. This is fun! Come and see us.
Next up, we will be playing with two Australian Shepherds! Stay tuned!
Mighty is a word prompt from Ben Huberman of the Daily Post. https://wordpress.com/read/feeds/27030/posts/1600207536
We are in a time right now where the Earth feels mad. Two massive earthquakes, in Central Mexico, in as many weeks. Many people dead, missing and without homes.
Hurricane after hurricane pounds the Atlantic destroying Puerto Rico and Dominica, making the powerful hurricanes Harvey in Houston and Irma in Florida feel like a distant memories. As Florida and Houston recover other communities suffer.
Mighty are the forces of nature that remind us we are small. Is the earth mad? Is global warming making things worse? The ocean waters are warmer than normal making the hurricanes mighty.
Mighty is the Orca Whale in the Miami Seaquarium. Lolita/Toki has been in captivity in a small tank for 47 years. Yes, 47 years! She was captured in a brutal human act of domination in the waters of Puget Sound in Washington State on August 8th 1970. She has survived Irma the storm, the winds and the tidal surge. Her tank is a mess with intake valves polluted by a massive sewage spill. caused by the storm. It is time to send her home. There is a plan. A good plan. Here is a link to the plan. Please learn the plan and make up your own mind if she belongs in her home waters or in a shallow bathtub like tank in Miami. #FreeLolita #Blackfish
Earthquakes likely have nothing to do with global warming. Likely??
Mighty are the people of Mexico who are surviving 8.2 and 7.1 earthquakes within two weeks of each other. Both Mexican quakes occurred on the Cocos tectonic plate. Five states and thousands of people are devastated by the latest earthquake which happened on September 19th, thirty-two years to the day from the massive earthquake that killed thousands in 1985. 32 years to the day? The earth is mad and we must listen to her voice.
As we watch the news in Spanish here from San Miguel de Allende we are un touched physically by the devastation. We see the mighty people of Mexico by the thousands pitch in to help the over worked rescue workers. Thousands of people, in Mexico City, line up to help clear the rubble of collapsed buildings with hope of finding someone alive. The line of volunteers work to clear ruble, gently bucket by bucket. Rescue workers raise their fists as a sign to the crowd for Silencio! Silence so they may hear the cries of trapped men, women and children under the weight of totally collapsed buildings including schools filled with children and teachers. The crowd goes silent. Thousands of people go quite as hope of someone alive grows. Next, cheering as they do find someone alive and pictures captured by a brave photographer show a small child crying being pulled from between broken concrete slabs. We are un touched physically but we are touched emotionally as the people of Mexico suffer. Families here in Mexico and the United States will be touched by these earthquakes.
Mighty are the people of Mexico, Puerto Rico, Dominica, Houston, Florida and more. Mighty are the people. Mighty is our earth. Please mighty people guard our mighty earth like your lives depend on this duty.
Thank you for the prompt Ben! https://wordpress.com/read/feeds/27030/posts/1600207536
The opening sentences of Juan Rulfo’s Perdro Paramo.
‘I came to Comala because I had been told by my father, a man named Pedro Paramo, lived there. It was my mother who told me. And I had promised her that after she died I would go to see him. I squeezed her hands as a sign I would do it. She was near death, and I would have promised her anything.’
We were given this book to read to help understand the culture of Mexico. Caroline and I devoured the book; it scared us and helped us to understand the culture of Mexico. Carmen, our friend here, gave us a copy in english to read and also blessed us with it for our own collection. It is a prize and if you find it you must grab hold as it is 139 pages of emotion, surrealism and frightening Mexican culture.
We live most of the year in San Miguel de Allende in Central Mexico. The beauty here is hard to describe but easy to see and even easier to feel in your heart and soul. The town is said to be built on giant beds of crystals. The way the Churches line up with the sun and moon is not an accident. The sun sets right down the middle of Calle Umarán as color and light simply beam as the bells of the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel ring through the city with the throaty melody of a baritone singer.
Cañada de la Virgen is an Otomi archaeological site that has been recently excavated. (Started in 1995) The site was ruled by the Moon, the Sun, and Venus, as demonstrated by archaeoastronomical studies conducted by the National Institute of Anthropology and History. Its main features are: Ceremonial Avenue, House of the Wind, House of the Longest Night- scientists believe has some relationship with the Otomi’s belief in the duality of the heavens and earth (Sun and Moon, Man and Woman), and House of the Thirteen Heavens.
Our fantastic guide Albert Coffee tells us that archeologists believe it took 500 years to find the location and another 500 years to build the pyramid. Perfectly designed archways and man made mirror pools line up exactly on the first day of Spring with the sun and in October the moon sets directly in line with the doors of the Pyramid. Off in the distance is San Miguel de Allende and the beautiful Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel that also lines up with the Pyramid. When Spain conquered Mexico, Coffee tells us, they attempted to crush the Mayan culture. Part of Spain’s strategy was to build their own buildings, and Catholic Churches right over the top of of the Otomi, Mayan and Aztec Indian sites which were brilliantly positioned and built to respect and honor the earth. Building over the top of these sites to crush a culture only protect and honor it even to this day.
My own history in Mexico touched down here in 1978 while in college I studied Spanish in nearby Morelia. The moon and stars lined up that year as I learned that one of my best friends that I had not seen in over two years had lived in San Miguel de Allende. Pre cell phones and email. Only hard mail letters, phone calls from parents and friends led me to San Miguel with zero communication with Tia.
I took a bus alone from Morelia to San Miguel de Allende in search of a friend and love. I walked to the Jardin that night and asked an American student if she happened to know a young woman named Tia. She said, ‘yes and I think she is right over there in that bar playing congas in a band’. Excited, I walked in to the bar and found my way near the front of the stage and stared quietly at Tia as she grooved on the congas. It took Tia 15 minutes, as I thought what am I doing here?, to notice and recognize me and her rush off the stage and in to my arms was one for the movies and especially my memory. Thank you Tia for showing me San Miguel and teaching me the importance of travel and learning.
Here we are now in San Miguel studying at the same school Tia studied 40 years earlier. Seriously? How could it be so long? We walk the same streets of the Jardin that I walked when I was 19 years old, when my thoughts were, like many of my friends today, ‘how far away is the beach or where is the beach?’ The beach is far and Mexico is so much more than beaches.
We do have a few adventurous friends that have visited us here. John and Miriam Larson. Laurie Flynn, Laura and Lorna Shirley and Andrea Jewett. Make the trek friends!
When you do come to San Miguel you will meet people. People like Gabby. Today we took a vegan cooking class with Gaby Green. We chopped, cooked, laughed, shared stories and listened to each other and learned from each other. We learned to cook traditional Mexican food which Gaby taught us from Mayan history is vegan. We cooked Chiles en Nogada, Cebiche de Verduras, Green Mole, and Nopales Jengibre-soya. All 100% vegan and delicious.
We sat to enjoy this beautiful meal with Gaby and our friends from the States Laura and Lorna Shirley they are here visiting us, getting away from the stress of the US, learning and laughing as a mother daughter duo. Mom and daughter cherish the gift. Moms and daughters cherish the gifts. A cooking class, a horseback ride, a shared glass of wine and a kiss on the head goodnight. Cherish the gift of shared experiences.
Gaby is brilliant. A film study, an artist, a chef, she speaks German, Spanish, English and is working on French. Gaby’s heritage is Mayan, Jewish, Russian, and Austrian. She told us people often ask her if she wants to live in the US. Her answer: ‘I’m Mexican and Jewish, I have tattoos and a girlfriend. In the US I would be considered derelict; here in Mexico I can be me!’ It feels, to me, that in the US we used to think this way. No?
These are a few sentences from Gabriel Garcia Marquez, a famous writer from Colombia in the forward to Juan Rulfo’s Pedro Paramo:
‘I felt like I had many novels in me, but I couldn’t conceive of the convincing and poetic way of writing them. That is where I was when Alvaro Mutis climbed with great strides the seven storeys up to my apartment with a bundle of books, extracted form this mountain the smallest and shortest, and said as he laughed himself to death:
-Read this shit and learn!
The book was Pedro Paramo.’
We are learning, learning so much about language, culture, people, and ourselves. Thank you Carmen, and thank you Gaby for your guidance and friendship. Thank you Caroline for your love.
“All journeys begin at home. That moment when you pull the front door closed behind you is one to relish…like the “glug” sound when you first pour from a bottle of wine.”
I read this line this morning as I was getting ready to write. It’ s from International Living and Eoin Bassett. Thank you Eoin it’s perfect to get me rolling.
When we started our journey in January our goal and dream was to live in three or four places each year. Traveling is one thing but having the ability to LIVE somewhere foreign is why we are out here.
Traveling is so much fun but you always go “home” in a few weeks. Back to work, back to the comfort zone. This blog is titled “Our hearts” our idea is to document our travels and truly sink in somewhere and feel like we are home wherever we are in the world.
The past six weeks we have lived in Medellin, Colombia. We went to school to continue our study of Spanish. Going to school five days a week, four hours a day is a routine, a structure of sorts almost like a job. It gave us a chance to learn not only the language but the culture as well.
We shop and cook our vegan meals and explore the wines of neighboring Argentina and Chile. Eating vegan in Colombia is a challenge because the culture is set up around carne, pollo and camerones. Part of the culture shock for us is; here to eat meat is a sign of wealth and success. When we say “sin carne” they look at us like we are crazy.
Here is a description of Colombia from a website called InSight Crime. InSight Crime is a foundation dedicated to the study of the principal threat to national and citizen security in the Americas: organized crime. You can follow them on Twitter as well. @inSightCrime
“Colombia has been in a civil war for over half a century and the rise and fall of drug trafficking empires, Colombia has made huge strides in improving its security situation in recent years. However, it remains beset by guerrilla rebels and criminal networks, and the Colombian underworld is a potent mix of ideological organizations and their remnants and organized crime where the boundaries between war and crime are fluid. These armed groups and criminal networks are involved in an extensive range of activities including drug production and trafficking, arms trafficking, money laundering, extortion and illegal mining.”
One of our friends told us that as she grew up everyday was marked with tragedy as a family member, friend or neighbor was killed by gangs either by gunshot or bomb. Even now she said as celebrations of holidays are marked with fireworks people still cringe, duck and wonder when the fireworks could actually be a car bomb exploding someones life because of a line crossed.
The bottom line is Medellin and Colombia are still dangerous. Pablado, where we lived, is relatively safe but outside this little bubble you can find yourself in harms way. Somehow though it does all work for the Colombians who live and work here. The gangs, cartels and drug lords work together to create a sense of normal in a city that is still recovering from anything but normal.
If you travel to Medellin you will find beautiful people inside and out. This modern and thriving city is full of young people going to work, dressed to the nines in high rise buildings with women wearing high heeled shoes attached to legs and bodies that will make your head spin. Caroline turns to me with her big beautiful eyes and says…”Where does that booty even come from?”
You could wake up, look out and think you are in Seattle, Vancouver or Denver. Just like these fine cities you will have the pleasure to smell the distinct smell of Colombian Marijuana. No, we didn’t taste it but the smell is distinct bringing back memories of another day.
La Piedra Del Penol, Spanish for “The Rock of Guatape”! The rock shoots 2,135 meters or just over 7,000 feet, straight out of the earth. The elevation here is 2,000 feet higher than Medellin.
The drive from Medellin is over an hour out of the valley and over the mountains through beautiful countryside dripping with green. The fincas, or small farms, dot the landscape of rich Colombian soil that grows fruit, vegetables and flowers all year long in this land of “eternal spring”.
In the distance you begin to notice the rock, a mountain jetting from the earth that our guides tell us is four times as larger under the surface. It is quite beautiful.
Our plan, like many, is to climb the rock’s 659 steps to the top. The man made steps are stitched into a crevice of the rock and go straight to the top. The hike is a switch back of cement stairs that climb to the top of the rock. The altitude and steepness of the climb get the heart pumping and the head light. The view is spectacular with waters in the distance as far as the eyes can see.
We were driven and guided by Juan Camilo and Esteban of All Access Colombia. They are great guys that will take good care of you from start to finish. Juan Camilo speaks perfect english and Spanish and when we told him…”Somos estudiantes de Espanol qui en Medellin y en Mexico. Necesitamos practicar por favor.” The Spanish flew inside the car as they explained Colombian culture and told us stories of friends and co workers. It was fantastic and as we listened we understood. We are getting this Spanish language. We are hearing the words and understanding. I know we will speak well soon! I know because now when I can’t sleep instead of counting sheep I’m conjugating verbs and thinking in Spanish.